The major sights of Gyeongju are Bulguksa temple 불국사 and the stone Buddha in Seokkuram 석굴암. Bulguksa is famous for the temple front with the stairs (on every poster of Gyeongju) and for the stone pagoda Dabotab that looks as if its designer was on drugs. On the other hand, because it is such a tourist destination, it lacks the charm and atmosphere of a typical Korean Buddhist temple. (If you want to visit one, I would recommend Girimsa 기림사, about 20km further east on the road to the sea. Try to be there during the time of evening prayer around 6 pm, when tourists have left and the monks play the big drum.)

You can take bus 10 from the Hyundai hotel to Bulguksa (there is also a daily sightseeing bus visiting all major sights, ask at the hotel reception). If you want to visit Seokkuram, take the trail up the mountain just above the entrance (ticket-office) to Bulguksa (it's 3.2km and a steep walk). Alternatively, take a taxi all the way to the Seokkuram entrance.

If you want to make a hike on Namsan, my favorite route is as follows: Take a taxi (or bus) to the three stone buddha statues of Baeri valley (배리삼존설불좌상) on the west side of Namsan. Take a look at the buddha statues, then cross the bridge over the little creek (behind the toilet building in front of the stairs to the buddhas). You emerge in front of a small temple called Mangwolsa 망월사 (Looking-at-the-moon-Temple). Mangwolsa has a nice setting (observe the bamboo forest that forms the backdrop to the main hall) and one unique feature: a three-story stone pagoda in a moat. Try to figure out the story shown in the paintings that go around the main hall (it's about a man and a bull, and is a parabola about men's search for enlightenment).

In front of the temple is a rather pleasant traditional tea house. I especially recommend the typically Korean ``teas''. Omijacha (오미자차) is one of my favorites.

The real hike starts behind the three tombs. Follow the signs for Sangseonam 상선암. There are several buddha statues on the way, some a little bit off the main trail, but by now well sign-posted. Near the top (or rather, the ridge), you first find the little hermitage of Sangseonam, and then a few steps further up a steep trail, the largest buddha.

A few meters of climbing and you are on the ridge of Namsan. From here you can go south over several little peaks with nice views of the valley. After a while you can go down left and hit the main ``road'' over Namsan, from where it is an easy walk back to the west side (coming out at Boseokjeong 보석정) or rather to the east side (coming out at Tongiljeon 통일전, mentioned below in the bicycle trip). If you have enough time, there are many other trails to explore or to take back down, for instance visiting Chilburam 칠불암 and from there down to the east side at Tongiljeon.

From the Hyundai Hotel, take the lake walk in north-west direction, then the bicycle lane next to the main road in the direction to downtown. Branch off to Bunhwangsa 분황사 (see the map). Bunhwangsa is well worth visiting for the stone pagoda and won't take you long. From here, follow the main road around the bend (it has a lot of traffic but you can cycle on the side walk), then turn left onto the smaller road to the National Museum. (This is the only short stretch where there is some traffic on the road you're taking. Be careful, Korean drivers are not familiar with bicycles, and Korea has a very high road mortality rate.)

After the crossing near the National Museum (with traffic lights), take the small street on the left side of the National Museum. After passing the museum on your right, there'll be a split. If you take a right turn, you'll hit the Namcheon River 남천, where you make a left and follow the river, passing underneath the Seorabeol-daero 서라벌대로 road. (If you go straight instead, you'll have to cross the road and hit the river further upstream, where you have to make a right turn, see the dotted line on the map.)

Cross the river as shown on the map and turn left, following the road along the river. You are now next to Namsan. After a few hundred meters, there will be a sign to the seated buddha in a niche of Bucheogol 부처골 valley. This buddha statue, also known as Granny buddha for its looks, is about 400m into the mountain.

A few meters further along the road is again a sign for the buddha statues of Tapgol 탑골 valley. This is an easy walk, a few hundred meters up along the river.

Leave the road along the river here, and take the smaller road closer to the forest further south. Keep right when it forks and you'll reach a sign for Borisa 보리사, a lovely little temple a little bit up into the mountain, with an exquisite stone buddha.

If you are still energetic, you can bicycle further south along the mountain in the direction of Tongiljeon. Your final destination could be the twin pagodas of Namsan-ri 남산리 temple site. There are some nice restaurants in the little village just before Namsan-ri, for instance Pulhyanggi 풀향기 (`Scent of grass') (Ssambab 7000 Won, right at the road near Seochulji pond, 054-748-8889), or Halmoni Kalguksu 할머니 칼국수 (`Granny's homemade noodles') a bit up the street towards Namsan.